Their yields are 92 ksi and 130 ksi, so a hitch pin would be 27,600 lbf and 39,000 lbf before leaving their elastic region. Where the difference in grade 5 and 8 comes in is that grade 5 has min tensile yield of 120 ksi and grade 8 150 ksi, so each could potentially fail at 40,000 lbf or 50,000 lbf respectively, so obviously there is a broader region where a grade 5 bolt would bend (from 92 to 120 ksi) compared to a grade 8 (from 130 to 150 ksi). But notice that the grade 5 bolt fails before the grade 8 even hits its elastic limit.
A Class 1 or Class 2 receiver has a 1-1/4” opening and is typically only used on cars for towing small trailers or supporting a bike rack. Class 3 and Class 4 receivers have a 2” opening. You'll find these on larger SUV's (the body-on-frame type, not crossovers,) and pickup trucks. A Class 3 receiver can handle up to 6,000 lbs (depending on design,) while a Class 4 can go up to 10,000 lbs. (Again, that's design-dependent.)
From that center one, we're looking at 1-1/2". Then from the one that's closest to the shackle. That's going to give us a measurement of 2-1/4". Now, if we take a measurement from the center of those hitch pinholes to the back of the shackle, the closest point, there, of the shackle . the closest pinhole to the shackle is going to be 1". That center one, right here up top, that's going to be 1-3/4, and to the very back pinhole, that's going to be about 2-1/2". Pretty simple installation. You'll need to determine which way you want this positioned in your hitch. Slide this piece into the receiver opening of the hitch and then secure it in your hitch using a hitch pin and clip or hitch lock. That's going to do it for today's look at part number BDW20239.
Also the bolt through a hitch receiver is in double shear, so unless you are driving a M35 and pulling out an M1A1 it's unlikely that you will stress a hitch pin or bolt to failure yanking out Hiluxes and Wranglers. The only disadvantage IMO to using the loop-and-pin method is convenience, stuffing the strap in can be a pain and sharp edges do need to be smoothed to keep abrasion minimized. But it's a perfectly legitimate and safe way to connect to a recovery point and does eliminate additional connections, which is good.
That's going to allow for easy and quick connect and disconnect of the recovery strap . Now, this is going to be great for ATVs and UTVs that have an 1-1/4" hitch on it. It is going to require a 1/2" hitch pin and clip or lock to get it secured into the hitch. That item is sold separately. You can find those right here at etrailer.com. A few measurements to go over with you real quick.
I honestly didn't have too high of expectations when purchasing this product as the cost was a lot easier on the wallet than local farm supply stores. That being said, this thing has a beautiful fit and finish. The ability to have the shackle mounted sideways, keeps from damaging your rope from pinch points. This thing is a solid chunk of steel. I'm not entirely sure that it is possible to damage this hitch on a full size truck. The hitch pin or shackle will fail way before the receiver will. Make sure you use this thing as it is intended because if you manage to rip this off, it is going to take armor plating to stop this thing in a projectile state. It is SOLID! Also, buy a locking hitch pin. Someone would definitely steal this if they have the chance.